Raising Bulldogs: From puppyhood to Champion

I wanted to add this thread as a medium for conversation of the many phases of our dogs. I am attempting to include as many questions as possible.

I wanted to ask those who have yards the following questions (others: feel free to add more questions within topic):

How much (more) room does a pregnant female need in their last week(s) of pregnancy?

What should the humans do first (or immediately) after whelping?

How much (more) room will the female and pups require? (Please note there may be 11 or 2 in a litter)

Is it ok to keep the Sire together with the "family"? If so, at what time?

Should pups be bathed as frequently as adults (2 times a month) if at all?

How early should puppies begin taking shots? Which shots are a must and which are recommended?

What are signs (or age) to look for to indicate the "family" needs to be separated? (this included Dam from pups, pups, and Sire from pups/dam). Is it possible to have some pups together (after separation) even when they were game-bred? (female/male pups together for example).

After pups are separated, should they be placed immediately in adult chain setups?

May these separated pups eat BARF? If not, how old is the minimum required to feed BARF?

What are things available to look at (if any) in a pup that will tell you of "faults" or other deformations, etc.? (Please advise age)

At what age should pups begin light exercise and for how long and/or what length? (please advise "light" exercises)

Will a shy pup become a shy adult? In more general terms, will a cur acting pup become a cur adult? How probable is it for a cur pup to become "game" adult? Is it more probable to have an aggressive pup become a game adult?

Why should a game-bred pup be socialized with other animals if it is most likely it will tolerate them as an adult?

Should adult (APBT) dogs be allowed to play with young dogs (7 months and up and adult is muzzled just in case)?
(I ask this one because a buddy of my allowed his then pup (6-7 months) to play with an adult American Bulldog. He stated the AB did not bite his pup (did not have a muzzle). Instead, the AB used the top of his head to lift and throw the pup. The pup would get up and eagerly go back for another lift.)

Is there a minimum age when pups may begin to safely play with the spring pole, tug-of-war, Kong toys, etc(due to teeth and jaw immatureness)?

Is there such thing as too much walking for a pup? (If so, please advise ages and distances)

When should adult conditioning begin? How long should his beginning sessions be?

We all know our dogs have high pain tolerance. How can the human know when the training was too much? How long should a young adult be rested after a tough workout?

What should you rub on your young dog's pad to prevent injury to them?

Are the benefits of "rub downs" exaggerated?

What solutions would you recommend for a rub down? (i.e. 50/50 water/alcohol)

How should you rub your dog after each workout? How long should you rub your dog?

Is boiled water helpful for a working dog or is it just a myth? (Boiled water is said to be without the fat producing elements)

At his/her peak, what should a conditioned dog be able to accomplish in terms of exercise? (i.e. run 20 miles in an hour, run the mill at full blast for 2 hours, etc.)

I am sure there are many, many more things to add to the above, feel free to include them.

Remember this is an educational thread. Any insults if unavoidable, should be stated in the "Chat" part of this site.

 

How much (more) room does a pregnant female need in their last week(s) of pregnancy?

No extra room but at least double her normal feed!

What should the humans do first (or immediately) after whelping?

I help the entire process if the mother allows me. I spend as much time from day 1 with the pups. Be sure to keep yourself clean with the use of Doctor's antibacterial foaming scrub before handling any puppies. Be sure to make sure that mom expels any waste and isn't bleeding heavily. Spotty bleeding is normal for awhile.

How much (more) room will the female and pups require? (Please note there may be 11 or 2 in a litter)

As long as they are properly contained you shouldn't need special space for them. I raise my pups indoors and they are raised on tile floor with a few gates to prevent access to certain parts of the house. As they grow up you put out puppy pads to start potty training and bowls of water and gruel.

Is it ok to keep the Sire together with the "family"? If so, at what time?

Mama usually doesn't take kindly to strange visits from other dogs. There is no need for the father to meet or be around the pups. I've been lucky and had a male that was able to stick his head in and sniff the pups. He also plays with them when mama is outside or resting. There isn't anything wrong with socializing but you need to know your dog and be present for 100% supervision just in case. I've been blessed to have one particular dog that loves to play with puppies. He helps a lot in the socialization department.

Should pups be bathed as frequently as adults (2 times a month) if at all?

I don't think any dog needs to be bathed twice a month. That just strips the oils out of their coat and skin. We bath the pups for the first time at 4 weeks or so. You have to be careful not to dry their skin out. Only natural shampoo without additives should be used. I commonly bath them every month or so depending on their "stink" level. I think bathing pups helps make them more managable later on in life. I like my dogs to like water.

How early should puppies begin taking shots? Which shots are a must and which are recommended?

7in1 starting 8 weeks for me. I wean the pups at 8 weeks. I think too many people wean the pups way too early. The interactions and food from mom is the best thing for the pups until 8 weeks or so. You shouldn't start vaccines until mother's immune system is out of the pups or sometime the shots don't take. 7in1 at 8 weeks and every 2-3 weeks after that. A few of our vet techs said to wait 4 weeks I believe so it isn't so hard on the pups system. Kennel cough and the others can be given at your discretion.

What are signs (or age) to look for to indicate the "family" needs to be separated? (this included Dam from pups, pups, and Sire from pups/dam). Is it possible to have some pups together (after separation) even when they were game-bred? (female/male pups together for example).

I have a few pairs of dogs that get along fairly well but that is the minority. However 90% of my litters would eat each other at any opportunity. I had to seperate at 8 weeks because they were having to be broken off of each other. If I didn't put them in solitary I would have come home to a severely injured or dead pup. A few of them were able to socialize with their sire but that ended fairly quickly. You have to be able to read the dogs. There is no concrete sign but overall most of the time they should remain seperated after they are weaned.

After pups are separated, should they be placed immediately in adult chain setups?

Hell no. Mine are seperated at 8 weeks and remain inside until 4+ months. At 4 months you can start introducing them to a tickler chain but they should not be on adult chain spots outside fulltime until they are 7+ months in my opinion.

May these separated pups eat BARF? If not, how old is the minimum required to feed BARF?

BARF can be fed at any stage although most people wait until the animals are 6+ months. It is the best feed for any canine. It takes a lot of work and patience to get a schedule down but with a dog freezer and premade meals you can end up spending less than a nice kibble.

What are things available to look at (if any) in a pup that will tell you of "faults" or other deformations, etc.? (Please advise age)

Over or under bite are obvious from a young age. You can see the angulation in the rear legs fairly easily. Bowed shoulders and deformations are very apparent. These are not extremely typical in working lines.

At what age should pups begin light exercise and for how long and/or what length? (please advise "light" exercises)

Light exercise as in "puppy" play should happen from birth. These animals can do basic tug with each other and chase small items. They will want to shake and run around with them and that is normal puppy play. A small walk down the street and back can be good to get them used to a leash. Long walks, weight pulling, and dangling dogs off the ground with their teeth should be avoided at all costs until the animal is 12+ months old. Let a puppy be a puppy! They do not need stress on their limbs and joints while they are growing.

(continued on next post)

 

Will a shy pup become a shy adult? In more general terms, will a cur acting pup become a cur adult? How probable is it for a cur pup to become "game" adult? Is it more probable to have an aggressive pup become a game adult?

A pup is a pup and they all have the same chance to make it. Sometimes the best acting one is the biggest cur and the worst acting pup is an honest gamedog. You can't read too much into a pups behavior. A shy pup more than likely wasn't socialized properly. There is a chance they will remain that way but with some hard work and bonding you should be able to break the dog if it isn't too old.

Why should a game-bred pup be socialized with other animals if it is most likely it will tolerate them as an adult?

Several of my dogs know there is a time and place for everything. This makes it a lot easier for me to handle them and a lot safer for the yard. A few can run around with me off lead if I had to and avoid the other animals. There is nothing wrong with socializing your animal and it will overall make you a better pet. A dog is game or not and no amount of socialization is going to make or break a dog.

Should adult (APBT) dogs be allowed to play with young dogs (7 months and up and adult is muzzled just in case)?
(I ask this one because a buddy of my allowed his then pup (6-7 months) to play with an adult American Bulldog. He stated the AB did not bite his pup (did not have a muzzle). Instead, the AB used the top of his head to lift and throw the pup. The pup would get up and eagerly go back for another lift.)

Eh... I wouldn't be messing with adult dogs like that. I don't believe any dog should be muzzled especially if they are doing physical exercise. That is just a huge risk and not healthy for a dog in addition to encouraging and teaching a dog to not use its own natural defense and offense. Muzzles are bad.

Is there a minimum age when pups may begin to safely play with the spring pole, tug-of-war, Kong toys, etc(due to teeth and jaw immatureness)?

12+ months in my opinion. Puppy Kong toys are great for young dogs because they are soft and keep them busy. Puppies can tug against each other and won't cause damage. Spring pole, flirt pole, and other strenuous activities should be avoided until the dog is completely physically mature.

Is there such thing as too much walking for a pup? (If so, please advise ages and distances)

Yes. Young pup to 3-4 months shouldn't be walked much at all. They should be leashed and led around in the yard a bit so they get used to it. Not only is it bad for their joints but you don't want young pups around strange dogs and poop. It is an easy way for them to pickup diseases. As they hit 6-7 months you can walk a city block carefully. Try to avoid walking on concrete and pavement. Gravel, dirt, track, or grass is a much safer surface for their joints. Once they hit 10-12 months you can start walking long distances.

When should adult conditioning begin? How long should his beginning sessions be?

12+ months. They should be as long as you're preparing for. There is no need to condition a dog unless you are going to a show. Putting a dog through a keep or conditioning the dog is hard on its body.

We all know our dogs have high pain tolerance. How can the human know when the training was too much? How long should a young adult be rested after a tough workout?

If the dog can't work out at the same pace it did the day before then you worked the dog too hard. Sometimes you just need to have an eye for certain things and that comes with experience. The animals should only workout once a day. Muscle building and body repair happens when you rest! They should have a day between workouts.

What should you rub on your young dog's pad to prevent injury to them?

Happy Jack Pad Kote I believe? Slowly working up your distances will also help develop a naturally tougher pad. Lotions and moisturizers should not be used! You don't want the pad softer.

Are the benefits of "rub downs" exaggerated?

No, just like humans it helps a lot with muscle tensiona and fat loss. If you've ever lost a fair amount of weight you can actually feel little pockets in your stomach or whereve. Rubbing it down helps keep things tight and promote fat loss. Muscles can always use a good rub down to prevent cramping and promote repair.

What solutions would you recommend for a rub down? (i.e. 50/50 water/alcohol)

I don't think you need to use alcohol but that is just my opinion. People use that to help "cool" a dog down but there is no need. The dog should be conditioned to recover on his own.

How should you rub your dog after each workout? How long should you rub your dog?

You need to rub his entire body from top to bottom, legs, stifle, and everything else. Rub his entire body down for however long it takes.

Is boiled water helpful for a working dog or is it just a myth? (Boiled water is said to be without the fat producing elements)

Myth.

At his/her peak, what should a conditioned dog be able to accomplish in terms of exercise? (i.e. run 20 miles in an hour, run the mill at full blast for 2 hours, etc.)

That really depends on the dog and situation. It isn't uncommon for a well shaped dog to be running next to a bike for 3+ hours.

Hope this helps,

B

 

Well here is my 2 cents.

Q. How much (more) room does a pregnant female need in their last week(s) of pregnancy?

A. They don't require anymore room in the last weeks of pregnancy

Q. Is it ok to keep the Sire together with the "family"? If so, at what time?

A. I would not Advise this, with any breed of dog.It serves no purpose and can make the bitch uneasy.

Q. Should pups be bathed as frequently as adults (2 times a month) if at all?

A. Mother will keep pups clean.I would not consider bathing pups until after they are weened.

Q. How early should puppies begin taking shots? Which shots are a must and which are recommended?

A. I start Vaccines at 6 weeks old and repeat at 10 and 16 weeks of age and every year thereafter.I use the Duramune Capv-5 without lepto.

Q. What are signs (or age) to look for to indicate the "family" needs to be separated? (this included Dam from pups, pups, and Sire from pups/dam). Is it possible to have some pups together (after separation) even when they were game-bred? (female/male pups together for example).

A. Depends on the pups.This is a judgment call.I like to ween my pups asap, cause the longer they stay on the bitch the sharper thier teeth get and the longer thier claws get and it is painful to the bitch to leave them on her too long.I have seen 4 week old pups make a bitches milk sack bleed from biteing and clawing and this can cause all sorts of problems.I like to give the bitch some time away from the pups at around 4 weeks when I start weening them on food.

Q. After pups are separated, should they be placed immediately in adult chain setups?

A. Yes I would put them on the biggest log chain I could find.Just kidding.
I don't put a dog on a chain until at least 5-6 mths old and a lite chain at that.

Q. May these separated pups eat BARF? If not, how old is the minimum required to feed BARF?

A. You can feed it to them, but take it up as soon as they get thier fill, until next feeding.

Q. What are things available to look at (if any) in a pup that will tell you of "faults" or other deformations, etc.? (Please advise age)

A.Bowed legs(front or rear)Cleft pallet(these pups usally die at birth)
Real short muzzled dogs are prone to underbites and real long muzzeld dogs are prone to have overbite, but I have seen dogs that were undershod at 3-6 mths old have a perfect bite at the age of 1 yr.The main thing to look for is hip and leg problems, but if its from good working stock this is of little concern.If its a amstaff then I would worry.

Q. At what age should pups begin light exercise and for how long and/or what length? (please advise "light" exercises)

A. Let them play all they want too.They will rest when they get tired.

Q. Will a shy pup become a shy adult? In more general terms, will a cur acting pup become a cur adult? How probable is it for a cur pup to become "game" adult? Is it more probable to have an aggressive pup become a game adult?

A. There is no such thing as a "cur" puppy, maybe a shy puppy, but thats it.Aggression in pups does not = gameness as an adult either.
I had rather take my chances with a confident outgoing put, then with a shy put.Shyness is a fault and not a desirable trait as an adult.

Q. Why should a game-bred pup be socialized with other animals if it is most likely it will tolerate them as an adult?

A. The gamest dog I ever seen was a well socailized dog around animals that didn't become aggressive towards him.I would never allow one to run lose around unfimilar dogs or even leave them alone with fimilar dogs, no matter how well socialized they are.

Q.Should adult (APBT) dogs be allowed to play with young dogs (7 months and up and adult is muzzled just in case)?
(I ask this one because a buddy of my allowed his then pup (6-7 months) to play with an adult American Bulldog. He stated the AB did not bite his pup (did not have a muzzle). Instead, the AB used the top of his head to lift and throw the pup. The pup would get up and eagerly go back for another lift.)

A. It all depends on the dog and the pup.Its a judgement call for each and every dog.

Q. Is there a minimum age when pups may begin to safely play with the spring pole, tug-of-war, Kong toys, etc(due to teeth and jaw immatureness)?

A. If they are just getting thier adult teeth, I would exercise extreme caution in putting stress on the teeth.Most dogs teeth are set by 1 year of age.

Q.Is there such thing as too much walking for a pup? (If so, please advise ages and distances)

A. I let mine walk all they want too.They will rest when they get tired.

Q. When should adult conditioning begin? How long should his beginning sessions be?

A. When they are Adults.All dogs mature differently and this is another judgement call.The duration of workouts depend on the dogs current physical abilities and limitations.

Q.We all know our dogs have high pain tolerance. How can the human know when the training was too much? How long should a young adult be rested after a tough workout?
A. All depends on what you are training for and what type training you are doing.Aerobic or anerobic? First you need to define tough workout.This is all relative to the dogs physical condition.If you are working your dog to the point that it causes pain to the dog then you are fucking up.Muscle fatigue and tiredness is expected and benificail to a degree, put if you are causeing them pain by putting them threw a workout then you should reevaluate your conditioning program.

Q.What should you rub on your young dog's pad to prevent injury to them?

A. 50% pine tar and 50% lanolin

Q.Are the benefits of "rub downs" exaggerated?

A.Its the most important part of the workout.It helps release lactic acids and repairs the the muscle tissue at a faster rate.

Q. Is boiled water helpful for a working dog or is it just a myth? (Boiled water is said to be without the fat producing elements)

A. Boiling water kills germs and removes chlorine.

Q. At his/her peak, what should a conditioned dog be able to accomplish in terms of exercise? (i.e. run 20 miles in an hour, run the mill at full blast for 2 hours, etc.)

A. If they outlast thier compitition, they have accomplished the goal of conditioning.
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Unlike some people that are here solely for themselves I like to pass on information that I've learned. If you don't have anything worthwhile to post then why post at all?

Regards,

B

 

Thanks for the reply B.

Though I'm not raising any puppies from date of birth, I'm right smack dab in the middle of that growth process and found some info. pretty helpful

 

Wow that's alot of question's

is this a test for the forum member's or do you want answers for all them Q?

my advice'dont let pup's play unsupervised with adult dog's try and avoid it full stop.

When your dog is fit he will recover faster and beable 2 do more for you in his work out's due 2 a faster recovery rate ( you should no when your dog as had enough )

Rubb downs are a time for you and your dog 2 get close make sure you talk 2 your dog and get him 2 enjoy them rubb downs work him from head 2 toe massage for a good 5-10 min's .

Get your pup used 2 the equipment yo will be using through out his carrier
get him used 2 the noise and movment of a treadmill let everythink be fun 2 him if he's on a chain only let him off 2 work or .... let him slowley no his place with you and what his job he will soon get the idea.

DO NOT KEEP THE MALE WITH THE PUP'S.

Have a roomy welp box and put her in it a week before the date she's due' make it so she can have access 2 the pup's and also get away if she has 2 ( depend's on your set up )

Let your pup be a pup ( fighter's are born not made ) get him used 2 every1 and everythink so he will mature with a stable mind and accustomed 2 the world you have shown him

Feed your pup the best and only the best food you can afford its crucial for his growth that he is fed correctley while groing dnt cut corner's give him the best start possible.

Hope that was some help 2 you and pls correct any mistakes I might off made it is my own personal thing's that I have picked up over the years but I feel the most important thing when dealing with this breed is COMMON SENCE IF YOU LOOSE YOUR CS YOU WILL LOOSE HURT OR EN DANGER YOUR DOGS . GOOD LUCK SOUNDS LIKE YOU GOT A LOT 2 LEARN

all the best MACHETTI

 

Great post B.

 

I actually posted this thread for our community. I do not have a pregnant bitch, do not have puppies, nor intend to breed in the near future.

I appreciate B for taking time to give his opinions. It is so easy to fill 3 pages of bashing but too hard to type a response to a pertinent thread? It goes to show you who is on the net b/c their bore and those that are here to educate/be educated.

Personal experience varies throughout the country and I hope those variances can be brought out in this thread (at least!)
Again, feel free to add or reject (politely) any response.

 

Thank you Machetti for replying and welcome the site!

Others: please do not all welcome him to the site on this thread. Send him a PM instead. Thanks.

Rep points for you!

 

I feel hand's on exsperiance is the best for any dog men the thing is ther is people out ther who are still hanging ther dogs 3 foot of the floor on a rope with no spring little tip dont listen 2 his advice find a good mentor and see if his result's match his mouth if you find a good respected dog man you will find success some were on your journey 2 CH or even GR CH.
If you keep or have conditioned a dog you will no how important knowing your dog reley is his look alone should be all the info and answers 2 how he feeling and what he is capable off on the day.

MACHETTI

 

m

 

I, like B, keep pups (havent bred, just from what i have bought/been farmed) inside for the first few months of there life. I get them potty trained, and do socializing w/them during this period. I too am lucky to have a few bulldogs that love pups, but i also have a few that would not "play nice" with them either. You need to be extremley careful when introducing pups to older dogs. Doesnt take much to injure a tiny puppy.
*though, i never have pappa, or any other dog around mamma/pups.*

I also start vaccines at 8 weeks, and give a 3 shot series every 4 weeks. I give Da2PP/Corona (Distemper/Parvo), and Bordetella. One of my dogs got kennel cough, and it was nasty to clear up. Check and see whats around your area, some vets recommend other shots depending on location.

NEVER ever would put a young pup on a chain, i stick em outside in a kennel around 6-7 months, then move to a light chain set-up.

i accquired 2 very shy 3 mo. olds, in my gallery- its JezeBelle & Rowdy. Rowdy earned his name, that dog is 1000 miles per hour, and scared of nothin now (except for maybe when i wrapped his legs LMAO- see pic)
JezeBelle though, is still very shy. When inside she still occasionally hides in her crate, but she will come and lounge on the couch with me. She was treated the same as Rowdy, she just decided to stay in her shell. Shes a nice bitch, just shy. Funny thing is its mostly indoors, when shes on the chain she is bouncin around and pretty much fine.... shes a special case

 

One thing I was always cautious of when it came to activities like tug-o-war, is to never play until the adult teeth are pretty much fully in. I was told (yes, hearsay, so someone please tell me if this is an unnecessary precaution), anyways, I was told that the tugging can lead to crooked teeth unless the teeth are set and grown in.

 

Great posts everyone, I think all the people who have taken their time to reply have stated for the most part the same as I would of.

 

Okay yall, I have a question. Does it make a difference what age you get you male neutered. This is my situation, I have 2 males that got along great. For almost 2 years. Last week, we had our first scuffle over food. They usually eat apart in the same room. This wasn't bad, easily broken up. This week, another one a little more serious. No real bleeding or anything. But this time it seems like they are holding a grudge against each other. Okay after the last fight, we reprimanded (whooped their asses) them and then deceided to kennel both for the night. In the morning, they still had attitudes towards each other. Now is this something that would have probably happened eventually anyway? Since one is 3 1/2 and the other is 2. Is it just the time where the 2 year old is maturing and trying the older male? I was going to neuter them anyway. The older dog isn't registered and the younger is beautiful but doesn't have a good bite and other little conformation faults. In other words, he isn't perfect and I can't see breeding any dog now with the mess our breed is in. Perfect dogs are probably being euthanized every day in some other state, so that is why I won't breed.
Any ideas? Will neutering solve the problem? Or will they never be friends again?
What do yall think?

 

Its a bit off topic of this thread but its a good question so I will answer it before you get in more serious trouble. It is more than likely simply an issue of the dogs coming of age. Neutering may help, and feeding in opposite rooms is needed, but being 100 % honest it sounds like you need to keep them separated now. Maybe some supervised play time with eachother if you and another person are both knowledgeable on how to break up a fight if one happened (breaking stick, correct method, etc....NOT pour water down their throat and hit them!). Some dogs of this breed can play o'k with other dogs for short periods of time, but you need to be able to recognize bad signs and stop the situation before it happens. I commend you for not wanting to breed and neutering your dogs, and again it may help some what, but the dogs cannot be trusted to be best friends as it sounds like they were before this incident. Get some sticks quick and learn how to use them, a fight can break out in the blink of an eye!

 

Well here is my 2 cents.

Q. How much (more) room does a pregnant female need in their last week(s) of pregnancy?

A. They don't require anymore room in the last weeks of pregnancy

Q. Is it ok to keep the Sire together with the "family"? If so, at what time?

A. I would not Advise this, with any breed of dog.It serves no purpose and can make the bitch uneasy.

Q. Should pups be bathed as frequently as adults (2 times a month) if at all?

A. Mother will keep pups clean.I would not consider bathing pups until after they are weened.

Q. How early should puppies begin taking shots? Which shots are a must and which are recommended?

A. I start Vaccines at 6 weeks old and repeat at 10 and 16 weeks of age and every year thereafter.I use the Duramune Capv-5 without lepto.

Q. What are signs (or age) to look for to indicate the "family" needs to be separated? (this included Dam from pups, pups, and Sire from pups/dam). Is it possible to have some pups together (after separation) even when they were game-bred? (female/male pups together for example).

A. Depends on the pups.This is a judgment call.I like to ween my pups asap, cause the longer they stay on the bitch the sharper thier teeth get and the longer thier claws get and it is painful to the bitch to leave them on her too long.I have seen 4 week old pups make a bitches milk sack bleed from biteing and clawing and this can cause all sorts of problems.I like to give the bitch some time away from the pups at around 4 weeks when I start weening them on food.

Q. After pups are separated, should they be placed immediately in adult chain setups?

A. Yes I would put them on the biggest log chain I could find.Just kidding.
I don't put a dog on a chain until at least 5-6 mths old and a lite chain at that.

Q. May these separated pups eat BARF? If not, how old is the minimum required to feed BARF?

A. You can feed it to them, but take it up as soon as they get thier fill, until next feeding.

Q. What are things available to look at (if any) in a pup that will tell you of "faults" or other deformations, etc.? (Please advise age)

A.Bowed legs(front or rear)Cleft pallet(these pups usally die at birth)
Real short muzzled dogs are prone to underbites and real long muzzeld dogs are prone to have overbite, but I have seen dogs that were undershod at 3-6 mths old have a perfect bite at the age of 1 yr.The main thing to look for is hip and leg problems, but if its from good working stock this is of little concern.If its a amstaff then I would worry.

Q. At what age should pups begin light exercise and for how long and/or what length? (please advise "light" exercises)

A. Let them play all they want too.They will rest when they get tired.

Q. Will a shy pup become a shy adult? In more general terms, will a cur acting pup become a cur adult? How probable is it for a cur pup to become "game" adult? Is it more probable to have an aggressive pup become a game adult?

A. There is no such thing as a "cur" puppy, maybe a shy puppy, but thats it.Aggression in pups does not = gameness as an adult either.
I had rather take my chances with a confident outgoing put, then with a shy put.Shyness is a fault and not a desirable trait as an adult.

Q. Why should a game-bred pup be socialized with other animals if it is most likely it will tolerate them as an adult?

A. The gamest dog I ever seen was a well socailized dog around animals that didn't become aggressive towards him.I would never allow one to run lose around unfimilar dogs or even leave them alone with fimilar dogs, no matter how well socialized they are.

Q.Should adult (APBT) dogs be allowed to play with young dogs (7 months and up and adult is muzzled just in case)?
(I ask this one because a buddy of my allowed his then pup (6-7 months) to play with an adult American Bulldog. He stated the AB did not bite his pup (did not have a muzzle). Instead, the AB used the top of his head to lift and throw the pup. The pup would get up and eagerly go back for another lift.)

A. It all depends on the dog and the pup.Its a judgement call for each and every dog.

Q. Is there a minimum age when pups may begin to safely play with the spring pole, tug-of-war, Kong toys, etc(due to teeth and jaw immatureness)?

A. If they are just getting thier adult teeth, I would exercise extreme caution in putting stress on the teeth.Most dogs teeth are set by 1 year of age.

Q.Is there such thing as too much walking for a pup? (If so, please advise ages and distances)

A. I let mine walk all they want too.They will rest when they get tired.

Q. When should adult conditioning begin? How long should his beginning sessions be?

A. When they are Adults.All dogs mature differently and this is another judgement call.The duration of workouts depend on the dogs current physical abilities and limitations.

Q.We all know our dogs have high pain tolerance. How can the human know when the training was too much? How long should a young adult be rested after a tough workout?
A. All depends on what you are training for and what type training you are doing.Aerobic or anerobic? First you need to define tough workout.This is all relative to the dogs physical condition.If you are working your dog to the point that it causes pain to the dog then you are fucking up.Muscle fatigue and tiredness is expected and benificail to a degree, put if you are causeing them pain by putting them threw a workout then you should reevaluate your conditioning program.

Q.What should you rub on your young dog's pad to prevent injury to them?

A. 50% pine tar and 50% lanolin

Q.Are the benefits of "rub downs" exaggerated?

A.Its the most important part of the workout.It helps release lactic acids and repairs the the muscle tissue at a faster rate.

Q. Is boiled water helpful for a working dog or is it just a myth? (Boiled water is said to be without the fat producing elements)

A. Boiling water kills germs and removes chlorine.

Q. At his/her peak, what should a conditioned dog be able to accomplish in terms of exercise? (i.e. run 20 miles in an hour, run the mill at full blast for 2 hours, etc.)

A. If they outlast thier compitition, they have accomplished the goal of conditioning.

 

What if your pup is bigger than the adult dog? When we got Jesse at 3 months he was about the same size as my Rat Terrier, he is now twice his size and they play like crazy. Jesse pounces on him like a cat. they play hide and seek. and they love to run together. Jack(the Rat Terrier) didn't like Jesse when we first got him, he completely ignored him, he only just came around to playing with him about a month ago. I suspect maybe he thought we were trying to replace his old running buddy, who got ahold of rat poison that I had no idea my roommates had in our pantry, he was a bit of a snoop and our pantry was usually closed. We had no idea what was going on. I have been told since that the vet we took him to probably just wanted to go home. We called him around 3am, mentioned we had a wellness plan in Houston 3 hrs away. He said he will make till you can get him there, just go home get some rest have him there by 9 he should be fine. He died at 7 that morning. Many vets and dog people in general have told me from the symptoms and him not being a pup and having shots(not parvo) that it was likely rat poison and that the vet should have recognized it. I refuse to go to that vet for my dogs. The other drs at the vet are good Equine vets, but I won't take a dog nor recommend anyone to take a dog there.

 

Thats fine Txgal. The whole point of not letting adults and pups play is in the case of the adult dog injuring/killing the pup either by playing rough or just plain getting aggravated. If the dog is big enough to stick up for itself and they both enjoy playing, let them play for now.