Barbados,West Indies

RODWOOD
American Pit Bull Terriers
Barbados,West Indies
MR.COOL'S CORNER



PRODUCER OF CHAMPIONS ( P.O.C .) Designation For Barbados And The Caribbean..........Rodwood's " STAMPEDE " Is A Potential "P.O.C." As He Has So Far Produced Several High-Cailbre Gamedogs.



The prestigious title of PRODUCER OF CHAMPIONS (P.O.C. ) will henceforth be bestowed on individual Caribbean dogs or bitches which have produced a minimum of 3 SHOW CHAMPIONS. Two separate pages are set up on this site and will feature the P.O.C. dogs,males and females. The number of Champions produced by an individual dog will be displayed in parentheses immediately following the "P.O.C.{x}" designation. A CHAMPIONSHIP title is bestowed on any dog or bitch which has won 3 CONSECUTIVE "CONFORMATION SHOWS". A GRAND CHAMPIONSHIP title is bestowed on any dog or bitch which has won 5 CONSECUTIVE "CONFORMATION SHOWS" with no defeats. Two separate pages are also set up on this site which will feature the male and female CHAMPIONS and GRAND CHAMPIONS.

Puppy Care Made Simple........By Mr.Cool.....Photo Shows STAMPEDE As A 5-Week-Old Pup In Dec. 1995.



The rearing of a pup from the time of weaning to adulthood is for many a stressful and time-consuming task. However in all actuality it is a simple exercise requiring nothing more than dedication and acute powers of observation. The weaning period can range from 5 to 6 weeks,depending on how well the pups have adapted to eating semi-solid or solid food. An ideal formula for weaning them off the dam is a mixture of puppy chow and goats' milk. Cows' milk is less easily digested. Mix within the formula a little cod liver oil and crush a few multi-vitamin/multi-mineral condition tablets. Hill's SCIENCE DIET,EUKANUBA or PROPLAN are good choices in the area of puppy food. If you do not have access to a high-grade dog food give them boiled CREAM OF WHEAT or FARINA and add WHEAT GERM,a little TOASTED BRAN,GROUND BEEF,CHICKEN or TURKEY,in addition to the goats' milk,cod liver oil and condition tabs. Begin feeding the pup adult formula at about 5 to 6 months of age. If not feeding on dog chow,replace the CREAM OF WHEAT with rice at 10 to 12 weeks old. Always make sure that the pup has had it's first PARVO VIRUS/LEPTOSPIROSIS vaccination between 6 to 8 weeks of age. The local veterinarian will do this for you. The pup will be due another booster shot every 4 to 6 weeks after this until adulthood, when it would be given a shot either once or twice a year. One of the most important things in a growing pup's early life is WORMING. Many do not comprehend that with each regimen of worming a pup goes through a spurt in growth immediately after. Also worms can stunt a pups growth if not done adequately and regularly. A pup should be wormed at about 4 weeks of age and every 3 to 4 weeks after this. On adulthood a dog should then be wormed at least 3 times per year. There are many wormers on the market but a multi-wormer is always the wisest choice as HOOKWORMS and TAPEWORMS are tough to get rid of. For those who don't know, the FLEA is the primary host for the TAPEWORM,so if you have fleas in your yard or on any of your dogs,tapeworms will infest them as they are passed on with each flea bite. An excellent FLEA,FLY and TICK repellent is APPLE CIDER VINEGAR. Just put in in a spray can and regularly spray the yard where your dogs are as well as the dog themselves. Adding BREWERS' YEAST and GARLIC to the dog's food will also deter any blood sucking insects including MITES and keep the dog's bloodstream clear of their toxins. The best wormers are IVOMEC, any ALBENDAZOLE-based wormer,eg. ZENTEL or MEBENDAZOLE-based wormer,eg. VERMOX or TELMIN KH . Also if you live in a mosquito-infested area have your veterinarian put the pup as soon as is applicable on a HEARTWORM preventive medication like HEARTGUARD for instance. Basically you will have to closely observe the pup on a day to day basis to monitor its development. If possible allow the pup to have a large area to run around or if not possible allow it to romp and frolic at least twice a day and mingle with others besides the owner. This is all important for the proper muscle-growth and bone-formation. Create that bond with the pup that it will always jump up and bark gleefully when it either scents or sees you or hears your voice. This is termed "PROPER SOCIALISATION". If not done the pup will grow either shy or vicious towards the owner as well as strangers. Regularly check the pups gums and coat as these are usually the visual indicators of good health and adequate nutrition, for pale gums and scruffy coat indicates malnutrition or worm infestation. Smell its breath and look in its eyes, as PARVOVIRAL affliction has its unique smell and the pups eyes will look sad and sunken and his coat will also lose its elasticity due to the dehydration caused by the virus. In the case of a PARVO outbreak get to the vet ASAP without delay. But if not possible try to hydrate the pup with either PEDIALYTE or plain GATORADE and give a little PEPTO-BISMOL to arrest any diarrhea. If after the vet visit the pup recovers give him initially some broth (fish broth is best)and graduate from this to PUREED to SOLID food once more. Disinfect your yard with CLOROX or some other CHLORINE-based bleach. It is always wise not to let people who keep many dogs onto your yard if you have young pups for they virtually walk the parvo into your yard. At between 5 to 6 months of age , a pup will shed his milk teeth for the permanent ones so be vigilant and do not allow it to damage them or break them out gnawing on toys and such objects. A dog's permanent teeth are not fully melded into his jawbone until around 2 1/2 years old. Some pups mature earlier than some but remember despite this they are still juvenile and should be allowed to fully mature. An indication of maturity setting in where male pups are concerned, is when they raise a hind leg to urinate,especially to mark his territory when being taken for a walk. Also accustom your pup to a collar from about 10 weeks of age and attach him to a chain periodically so he will become used to being tethered when the time comes. A simple way of accomplishing this is to let the pup run around the yard with a length of chain attached to his collar from time to time so that it becomes a normal thing for him/her after a while. The AMERICAN PIT BULL TERRIER or GAMEDOG as it is sometimes called is a very hardy and robust dog breed, which is sociable by nature and craves human attention,always seeking to please its master/mistress. However this breed in the hands of the uninitiated novice or reckless individual should not be encouraged as some strains or families within the breed are very dominant and will test the owner in an effort to be in control. It is always wise to get a pup from a sensible breeder who knows his dogs' propensities and will sell you a pup which fits your requirements or will refer you to another breeder who can assist you......I am Mr.Cool

THE BREEDING METHODS OF Mr.Cool ......A Proven And Artistic Science .



Numerous times , I have been asked what the "magical" formula is in CREATING , DEVELOPING , MAINTAINING and PERPETUATING a SOUND , POTENT and SUCCESSFUL strain or family of gamedogs . The methods are realatively simple but require unwavering dedication and realistic assessment skills . There are basically 2 methods I utilise which many will find enlightening and will also be of some benefit to those who are "lost in the wilderness of haphazard breeding" . 1. The first I shall elaborate on is the " L.I.C.E. " method of breeding: {a}.. "LOCATE" :- The initial step is finding or locating the particular attributes or traits that appeal to you in a gamedog , then do a 6 to 10 generation PEDIGREE SEARCH or ANALYSIS of this dog and do some serious research on each dog in that pedigree . What you are looking for is a "COMMON DENOMINATOR" which would be any dog or bitch that FREQUENTLY appears in the bloodline possibly up to the 10th generation . If this is not the case and the pedigree shows a varied ancestry {SCATTER-BREEDING} , where no dogs within 6 to 10 generations are related or are distantly related , seek to IDENTIFY THE STRONGEST OR MOST POTENT DOG OR BITCH IN THAT BLOODLINE with attributes desirable to you . In either of the two cases aforementioned a secondary step in the development process can be initiated . {b}.. "ISOLATE" :- Once you have pinpointed the particular dog/bitch you wish to base your strain on , a process of ISOLATION of the specific genes of this animal is done . At this stage seek to use a stud or acquire a bitch which is inbred or highly linebred on the dog/bitch you are targeting or get one which is closely related , bloodwise , which is also inbred or highly linebred . Phase 3 of the breeding programme can be embarked upon from this juncture . {c}.."CONCENTRATE" :- You will have 2 main options available to you , which are either utilising your original dog/bitch as your FOUNDATION/BACKBONE LINE , where he/she would be the FOCAL POINT of the breeding programme but this is good only if the GENE POOL is close . The other choice would be to use the original male/female as a CROSS into the inbred/highly linebred stud/brood bitch ,with the percentage of the outcross reducing over time by successive infusions of the inbred/highly linebred blood . The original dog/bitch in this latter case can be utilised into the tighter/purer stock at a later time for outcrossing with minimal compromise to the integrity of the line as its genes would already be existent there . {d}.."EVALUATE" :- This is in essence the "TESTING" , "CULLING" and "PROVING" stage , where only the most typical and potent gamedogs are "tried in the fire" and are selected as the major proponents of their strain . Such specimens should VALIDATE and VINDICATE the philosophy of their breeder and in turn form a solid foundation for aspiring breeders in the game . 2. The other breeding method is an alternative to the "L.I.C.E." method and not only cuts down on valuable time spent but will save one money as well . It involves the utilisation of INBRED or HIGHLY LINEBRED , TESTED STOCK from 2 , 3 , or 4 bloodlines . Your options may be a 2-WAY or 50/50 crosss {eg. RED BOY/JOCKO} , 3-WAY cross {eg. JEEP/RED BOY/ELI} , 4-WAY cross {eg. BOOMERANG/BOLIO/TOMBSTONE/ELI} . With these types of breedings , you get a high degree of HYBRID VIGOUR and though the gene pool would be more extensive than a strain based on or centred around one specific dog/bitch , it would not in ,my opinion be considered true scatter-breeding . This is so because in a scatter-bred dog no 2 dogs within 6 to 10 generations are closely related . However with this type of breeding we have 2 to 4 highly concentrated gene pools which in essence preserve the integrity of each line and when crossed or recombined cause a literal GENETIC EXPLOSION , resulting in super-dogs being whelped . The ultimate benefits of this kind of breeding is that high-quality , high-performance gamedogs come about , regardless of the inbred/linebred component lines infused and such lines are more tolerant of inbreeding than gamedogs resulting from the L.I.C.E. breeding method . So whether the "LOCATE-ISOLATE-CONCENTRATE-EVALUATE" method which is literally "RE-CREATING" a specific strain of gamedog or the 2-WAY ,3-WAY or 4-WAY INBRED/HIGHLY LINEBRED CROSS method which tantamounts to "CREATING" a new strain of gamedog , is employed , the onus or responsibility of a particular bloodline thriving and being a top performer in the game rests sqaurely on the breeder's shoulders . Thus any smart breeder should be more CRITICAL of his own line/s than others , with the trait of GAMENESS forever in his mind as the COMMON THREAD which pervades his bloodlines . This is the very essence of what this breed of ours is all about......I am....MR.COOL.



Watson's Stampede son of Schoolboy's Big Red ROM X Raging Bull's Red Girl