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Jack Meek

Discussion in 'APBT History' started by F.W.K., Jan 20, 2021.

  1. F.W.K.

    F.W.K. CH Dog

    JACK MEEK'S KEEP


    THIS SITE IS FOR HISTORICAL ENTERTAINMENT AND DOES NOT CONDONE ACTIVITIES
    WHICH CONFLICT WITH THE ANIMAL WELFARE ACT OF 1976 OR REVISIONS THEREOF.


    SHAPING

    Conditioning the dog for a hard battle is an art and a very difficult
    subject to outline in a manner that will agree with the ideas of various
    successful shapers and handlers throughout the country. Each has his own
    particular theory regarding the best method to put a dog in shape for the
    battle of his life. We do not claim to be an authority by any means but
    will in a small way try to set forth a few things that will be of help to
    the beginners.
    It is more difficult to condition the dog for a battle than it is to train
    a horse for a hard race, and requires at least as much time, possibly
    more. Many kinds of dope used in times past and parties not knowing how to
    shape their dogs properly, has often caused the best dog to lose. A dog
    should not be “pitted” until he is at least eighteen months old, although
    occasionally one is found that will develop into fighting maturity at an
    earlier age.


    MATCHING: Never give away weight if you can possibly avoid it. A pound
    or two is a considerable handicap if the dogs are lightweight or stay
    under forty pounds. It is best to match at a stipulated weight the dogs to
    weigh in at the specified weight or under. This is a point often
    overlooked by amateurs and has caused the loss of many fights. Along with
    putting the dog in shape an equal effort of the experienced dog man is to
    out-match the other fellow by setting a dog down without an ounce of
    superfluous weight and still be able to get out of him all he ever had in
    the way of strength and fighting ability. At the same time, the old timer
    may have information on the other dog that may cause him to figure the
    possibility of that dog not being able to do the weight without weakening;
    or on the other hand, that he may be a smaller or lighter dog than the
    stipulated weight and will be brought in with just that much unnecessary
    poundage.
    Another thing the experienced pit man gives considerable attention to is
    the fighting type of dog - that is, his favorite holds, or the type of
    punisher he happens to be. Some dogs are adept at legging; others are the
    breast and shoulder fighters; some work after the brisket, belly, or
    stifle, and others are close head fighters. Most dogs prefer to fight on
    top while a few are natural under-fighters. Every pit dog man has his own
    ideas as to what constitutes the best fighting dog and believes that
    particular style has certain advantages over the others. As an example; if
    one is matching against a leg fighter he will want to use a hard biting
    nose dog, one that will eat the legger’s nose off. All such things are
    worthy of consideration. The dog men have their various friends scattered
    throughout the country and lose no time in trying to ascertain the size,
    fighting style, breeding, and other information that might prove helpful
    should they contemplate matching a certain dog. The breeding is considered
    of much importance. However, all these things may have particular
    advantages, but the most intelligent system is to take no chances - give
    the other fellow the benefit of the doubt. Credit him with having an A-1
    fighter, a game dog, and a conditioner that will have the dog in the best
    possible shape. Then on this theory proceed to put your dog in the “pink”
    of condition, at the same time being quite sure of his lowest possible
    weight and ability.
    When the match is made and the forfeits posted the first step is to clean
    your dog thoroughly. Give him a good vermifuge and see that he is entirely
    free of worms. Follow this with a good physic, which should be given on
    two consecutive days. The following day, which will be the fourth, give
    him a big dose of castor oil, followed by five drops of Fowler’s Solution
    of Arsenic. About five or six days of light exercise and he will be ready
    to begin training. Do not let him serve any bitches and keep him away from
    all dogs - where he can not hear them bark if possible. It takes at least
    four weeks to put a dog in first class shape.
    DIET: Every experienced conditioner has his particular ideas for feeding
    during the training period. The proper food is a matter requiring good
    common sense and careful watching. Dogs are like humans in many respects,
    no two are exactly alike. The food that one dog works and thrives on many
    disagree with another. Feed wholesome muscle and strength building food
    that the dog likes and that agrees with him. For the first day or so after
    cleaning him out a mixture of stewed turnips, carrots, cabbage, parsnips,
    and bullock makes an excellent diet. Many shapers feed only lean chopped
    beef mixed with well-done toast crumbled into small pieces. A few fresh
    raw eggs added occasionally are good. Of all diets this will probably be
    found as good, if not superior to any other. Do not be afraid of over
    feeding your dog as you are putting strength into him and reducing at the
    same time. However, one should not allow him to gorge himself to the point
    of sluggishness. Feed no fattening foods. A dog’s digestive organs are
    much slower functioning than those of a human. It requires from twenty to
    twenty-four hours for the food to pass through his body. He ordinarily
    should be fed once a day, although many successful trainers feed both
    morning and night about thirty minutes after his last rub down. Allow the
    food to cool before giving it to the dog. During the last few days of the
    training period, it is well to regulate his feed so that, without making
    any great change in the time of the meals, his last feed will come
    twenty-four hours before he enters the pit.
    WATER: When cool, after his work, a dog should have all the pure fresh
    water he will drink. There is some difference of opinion as to the kind of
    water that should be given. A number of trainers contend that boiled water
    is the best as it is minus the fat producing ingredients and that a dog
    will not get feverish or thirsty and froth so quickly when trained on it.
    However, some of the greatest of all conditioners have informed us that
    pure water just as it comes from the well, spring or lake is as good as
    any. If the dog is being worked properly he will not take on flesh and if
    he is given plenty of water he will not become feverish, at least not from
    any cause due to his drink.
    Be sure that the dog’s quarters are free from drafts and that he has
    plenty of clean dry bedding and an abundance of fresh air. Talk to him
    while working and rubbing, as it will accustom him to your voice and help
    him to keep in a more cheerful mood. When in the pit he will need all the
    assistance you can give him in the way of words of encouragement.
    A very important thing to bare in mind is that to reduce a dog’s weight
    requires lots of walking. You walk him for hardening and reducing, the
    treadmill or training machine if for his wind. The spring pole is an
    exerciser and strengthener of all muscles, more specially those around the
    jaws and neck. If a dog has a good bite this work will perhaps be the
    means of improving it. If a dog is not a hard biter it is seldom if ever
    that you can develop one for him. A great many of the old timers trained
    dogs that never worked on spring poles and there are many dogs today that
    will not work on either a spring pole or coon hide. The Lamkin treadmill,
    a very successful invention for training dogs is described in the
    advertising section.
    Rubbing is a very essential part of training. A dog should be rubbed at
    least until cooled off after each bit of work. The principal rub should
    come after the main workout on the treadmill machine or training machine.
    It takes at least thirty minutes to rub a dog dry. Most trainers have
    their opinions as to the best solution for rub-downs. Many use a half and
    half mixture of alcohol and water. One kind is probably as good as
    another. This is very helpful in removing the fat from under the hide. A
    dog’s skin is not porous and very little of the liquid will soak in. It’s
    the rubbing that does the work. Rub with the play of the muscles and from
    the tip to tip. The belly, breast, and flank rubbing is quite important.
    Many of the dog men of the old school claim that to be in proper condition
    a dog must be entirely free of fat.
    CARE OF THE FEET: The condition of the dog’s feet should be watched
    closely at all times during the training period. It is not necessary to be
    continuously “doctoring” them unless the pads show too much ware or the
    dog goes slightly lame after the first few days work. The pads on some
    dogs’ feet are naturally tough and will go through the training period
    without any particular care if his work is properly diversified (another
    thing strictly up to the trainer’s good sense) and the track or treadmill
    footing is properly chosen. A smooth soft track or road free from grit
    should be used for the dog’s walking and his treadmill track covered with
    at least two layers of canvas or other material that will be easy on his
    feet. Washing the feet in luke-warm water and thoroughly drying them after
    roadwork will help keep them in a good healthy condition and lessen the
    chances of lameness. Should your dog be one whose feet are prone to
    tenderness a good foot washing is necessary. Edible tallow is very good to
    help keep the feet in good shape. A solution of white oak, or post-bark
    can easily be made that will toughen the dog’s feet. Take about six quarts
    of the bark chopped fine and place in a vessel and cover with water. Allow
    this to steep for about three hours or four. When it is cool it is ready
    for use. Do not place this in an airtight container as it will burst a
    glass or earthenware jar if covered. Tanic acid is also good for
    toughening the dog’s feet.
    The schedule to be used during the training period must be arranged by the
    trainer. What hours would suit one would not suit another. Use common
    sense and arrange the dog’s work as conveniently as possible. The
    following will be found to be a fairly good schedule.
    Begin the morning with a walk of from three to six miles, more if
    necessary, allowing the dog to stop and empty out as often as he desires.
    Upon returning give him a little work on the treadmill, beginning with say
    two minutes the first day and increasing it each day gradually. Follow
    this with a good rubdown, after which give him all the water he will drink
    and put him away until afternoon. If feeding twice a day, give the morning
    feed about twenty minutes after the rubdown. In the afternoon give him
    another walk from three to six miles and more work on the treadmill. A
    good rubdown and plenty of water and he will be ready for his supper in
    about twenty minutes afterwards. Use your watch on the mill work and do
    not overdo the thing.
    After a few days follow either the morning or afternoon work with a few
    minutes on the spring pole, if the dog will work on one. If using a pull
    in the hands, have it about six or eight feet long and a rope about two or
    three feet fastened to the end of the pole. Tie or sew a sack or coon hide
    to this rope. Make the dog hustle to get hold of the hide but do not hold
    it so high that he must jump for it. This will accustom him to turn quick
    for a hold and to hold when he gets it.
    About the fifteenth day he should be nearing the fighting weight. If he is
    still above weight increase the walks. If under weight increase the feed.
    If he is at about the right weight keep him where you have him only do not
    let up on the work or increase it too much. A day or so before the fight
    ease up on his work a little unless he is hard to keep within the weight
    limit. Walking is the best thing for reducing weight and you run no risk
    of overdoing things. The day of the fight do not work any but give him a
    moderate walk in the morning and put him away without rubbing. It will not
    hurt to give him water unless the fight is to be within a few hours. When
    ready to start for the pit walk with him if possible. If not be sure and
    see that he empties out before going to the scales. Some handlers give a
    few ounces of sweet milk, beef tea, or water just after weighing in.
    The foregoing schedule is not a set rule, one must use his own judgment as
    to the proper length of time to get his dog in the best shape. Some dogs
    require longer than others to be properly conditioned. Do not burn the dog
    up the first few days. Do plenty of walking and rubbing, these things
    alone will put him in pretty fair shape if he is properly fed.
    The spring-pole, merry-go-round, treadmills, etc., will be found in the
    chapter “Miscellaneous”. There also will be found short paragraphs on such
    subjects as “Hints on handling”, “Foul tricks”, “Articles of agreement”,
    “Registering agencies”, and other kindred subjects.

    THE SPRING POLE

    The spring pole will be found very helpful in shaping as it exercises
    nearly every muscle in the dog’s body, especially the jaw, neck and back.
    Take a hickory sapling sixteen feet long (any wood with a good spring to
    it will do as well). This pole should rest in a forked stick, or through
    an eye-bolt set in concrete, the top of which should be eighteen to
    twenty-four inches from the ground. Stake the big end of the pole to the
    ground, at a distance from the forked stick which will place the pole at
    an angle of about forty-five degrees. Take a one-quarter inch rope and run
    through a small pulley, which should be attached to the small end of the
    pole, and tie one end to the butt of the pole. The other end of the rope
    to be suspended in the air at whatever length one wishes, although it
    should not be high enough to cause the dog to jump to take hold. Either a
    coon hide, well sewed together, or a grass sack, is good for the dog to
    hold onto. If a sack is used it is best to moisten the sack to keep the
    ravelings and lint from bothering the dog. Fasten the sack, or coon hide
    on the rope securely or a strong dog will soon tear it loose.
    To properly condition a dog for a fight it is very important that one must
    have a good mill to exercise him. There are a few patented treadmills on
    the market. A number of dog men use the home-made merry-go-round know as
    the Bowser Mill. Most any experienced fighting dog men can furnish the
    plans for this type mill. A number of successful conditioners use various
    types of table mills. If you are a beginner we would suggest obtaining the
    advice of some experienced conditioner. Of course, each will have his own
    favorite type of mill and perhaps point out the various good and bad
    points. The main thing is to get a good and easy running mill that will
    not be in constant need of repair.
     
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