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Help with Raw

Discussion in 'Health & Nutrition' started by ohpitbulls, Jan 10, 2011.

  1. bull-dog

    bull-dog Big Dog

    What would be a good raw diet for my 75lb boxer?
     
  2. Irish Pitbull

    Irish Pitbull Top Dog

    Seeing as most dogs the diets in this thread are designed for are about 40lbs, I would double everything and see how it goes...
     
  3. Irish Pitbull

    Irish Pitbull Top Dog

    The dogs look confused :P
     
  4. csotelo9388

    csotelo9388 Big Dog

    wuldnt u b...lol
     
  5. And look at the pig he`s closed his eyes an hoping for the best!! :D
     
  6. Irish Pitbull

    Irish Pitbull Top Dog

    The White dog is exploring lol
     
  7. GRSMO

    GRSMO Pup

    Hahaaa pig heads, I love it!
     
  8. crushbones

    crushbones CH Dog

    Does he eat the fur too??.....I'm talking to krazyk9
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 14, 2011
  9. bull-dog

    bull-dog Big Dog

    well im just starting so should i ween him of dog food?:confused:
     
  10. When i changed over i starved for two days to clean out there system and started off introduce one thing at a time and you`ll know what works some take to it straight away and some do a lot a licking and sniffing so what i done was if they didnt get stuck in after 10 mins take it off them and try again in 12 hours or the next day they will soon learn to take whats given, best of luck
     
  11. CrazyK9

    CrazyK9 Top Dog

    For the most part she will leave the hide. Except for on the legs and head. She will usually eat that.
     
  12. redrumdog

    redrumdog Top Dog

    Rawlearning.com by Jane Anderson and u can try petgrub.com for some tips on feeding raw.I used to feed raw years ago and I got all my stuff at the slaughterhouse and poultry wholesaler.My diet was not as detail as the ones on here.The information on here about raw feeding is a lot better.Check your local area for poultry supply and beef supply,prices do vary.
     
  13. Jeep/Redboy

    Jeep/Redboy Big Dog

    This is not to contest anything anybody on here has said, but I didn't like my recent experience with raw feeding and I switched back. A damn good dogman on this forum put a lot of work into helping me get my diet together ( a loooooot of work). His advice was sound, but for some reason my dog just didn't respond well to it. I went for about 3 weeks. My dog is right around 50 lbs.

    My staple diet was:

    Leg Quarter
    1/4-1/2 cup of brown rice
    heaping table spoon of yogurt
    heaping table spoon of cottage cheese
    vegetables (carrots, greens, whatever I felt like that day)
    soft boiled egg
    1/2 a multivitamin
    + a secret ingredient

    I substituted the leg quarter for gizzards, kidneys, or livers 3 days a week. He was getting plenty of meat for his weight and didn't whine for food like he does on kibble. His turds looked good. Can't say his coat improved, but I don't think 3 weeks was long enough to see all of that. I do believe he had more energy though- just my opinion but he's five years old and I know him pretty well.

    But with that said, my dog started losing weight for some reason. I just wormed him- almost 100% sure he's clean. Never had a worm problem here as long as I keep him on a regular schedule. Anyways, after a week back on kibble I got his weight back right. So like I said, I'm sure he's clean. Just don't know why he started losing the weight. Any input would be greatly appreciated. I definitely wasn't trying to hijack this thread- just wanted to add my experience. I have all the confidence in the world in the diet I had him on and the guy who laid it out for me. I just don't know what happened.
     
  14. CrazyK9

    CrazyK9 Top Dog

    Well, my opinion on that is its because you didn't have enough meat and had way too many unnecessary ingredients. Grains should be cut out. If you want filler, stick to vegetables, but this really shouldn't make up more than 10% of the diet. The egg should not be every day. Neither should the yogurt or cottage cheese.

    It's important to give more variety than just a chicken quarter and some organs. Try other parts and rotate until you've fed just about every part of the bird. It's also important that you add in red meat. Different species have different nutritional value. Age of the animal, its diet while alive, and what body part you're feeding all factor into this. For example, a cow fed grass instead of slop on a feed lot is much higher in omega 3's. Another example, a juvenile mouse is higher in fat than an adult. It is also higher in vitamin e but lower in vitamin a.

    I always reccommend someone do their own research and not just listen to my or anyone else's advice alone. So, go read up. :)
     
  15. HighCoastHiker

    HighCoastHiker Top Dog

    I'm no expert, I've only been feeding raw for a little over a decade so feel free to ignore and disagree. However, I see a lot of diets posted here with chicken leg quarters as a base. I know that they are easy to find, and a lot of folks feel that if chicken leg quarters are good for them they must be great for their dogs. All I am going to say about that is if you find any of the books by the folks that reintroduced raw to people ..Billignhurst...you would see that chicken legs would play a very small part in any program. Backs, wings, necks, are the cuts recommended and for good reason. You simply do not get the proper bone and fat percentages when you feed leg quarters as your base. And frankly, no matter who they are, as soon as any "raw feeder" starts talking about leg quarters and brown rice....well, that's like a "dogman" telling you about all the fast-lane Razor's edge in his line. Period. Do the research folks......look for those who know that BARF was an acronym for Bones and Raw Food,...not biologially available raw foolishness. If people wish to feel that they are doing more for their dog by preparing four course meals with ten different ingredients...more power to them...after all it is their money and their dog. However, if you are one of those folks, do us real raw feeders a favor and spend a little more time educating yourself a little more, and a little less time misinforming those who know even less than you. Now, I can't spend any more time on this today, I have ten hens in that have been sitting in a plastic bag in the back of the car since I slaughtered them yesterday. Since they aren't going to pluck themselves, I'd better stop procrastinating and get to it.
     
  16. Naustroms

    Naustroms CH Dog

    quarters is fine as a base. necks and backs are usually added as well because of the high bone percenage and cheap cost.
     
  17. HighCoastHiker

    HighCoastHiker Top Dog

    If you've ever buthered a chicken, you see that not only are some of most abundent fat deposits located under the skin along the back of the bird, but that the oil/preen gland is also located there. Bone density is low with hight marrow content.

    If you're feeding drumsticks, that's one thing. There is a better ratio of raw bone marrow (that's the important part of the bones folks) to muscle meat in drumsticks than in thighs. Go and looks for yourself. Thighs are basically dry muscle on a flat bone/cartilaqe framework and not much else. I've never been able to feed thighs without heavy supplementation to make the skin look decent. I've been able to feed backs without adding anything else except water and still keep dogs in good coat. You see, a big reason why so many of these complicated raw diets with thighs and rice as the base require so many ingredients is to make up for so much of what thighs lack. Period. I am not saying that you should not feed them to your dog, or that they are not healthy. However, you do this long enough with enough dogs in enough ways and the bullshit and unnecessary complications fall out. I use thighs if I'm desperate and can't find backs. However, within days the difference shows if I do not supplement. As for using these cuts because they are cheap,.....well, you do some comparison shopping and tell me if a pound of wings is cheaper than a pound of thighs. Do the same comparison if you can even find necks.
    Do some simple research. Take an equal amount of chicken backs with the tail end attached, (1/4 pound will do) and thighs. Put each type of meat in an equal pot with equal water and boil for the same amount of time. Put both to sit and cool when all is said and done look and see which pot has the most fat to skim off the top. Then ask yourself what that possibly means to your dog and your budget and your supplement regime if you base meat is chicken thighs.
     
  18. Naustroms

    Naustroms CH Dog

    backs and necks are cheaper than quarters. at least where i shop. however quarters are dirt cheap as well. the quarters add more meat than what the backs/necks have to offer and compliment each other. most of the time when people add rice its as a filler to make the dogs feel more full rather than supplementing something. or atleast thats why i add it, can't really speak on other's diets.

    but yes quarters do have a lot less fat and bone, they shouldn't be fed exclusively but when coupled with RMBs and organs it works. all about providing a balanced meal.

    edit: never butchered a chicken, would just get the huge box of backs from the grocery.
     
  19. JoeyNzoey

    JoeyNzoey Top Dog

    From my experience onto today which is not very long compared to others, I feel a fair enough variety is the best way to go with a raw diet. By variety I am speaking on terms of the meats your going to use not all the extra supplements. I use to mainly feed chicken quarters and chicken backs during the beginning but I have gradually begun to feed other choices available to me. Like Turkey wings and legs, turkey backs, beef and buffalo meats, turkey necks, lamb etc. I still do use chicken quarters and backs weekly but certainly they are not just my base.
     

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