Biking- How hard, how fast, how frequent?

What is the furthest you bike your dogs?
How hard do you let them run?
How frequently do you take them out?

I just started with my male and he ran his foot pads off the first time, dead run 3 miles out, swam, then jogged back. Never seen a dog run that hard that long in my life. Next couple times after his feet healed he went all out a little, but stopped going as hard sooner and I just jogged him back easy. I want to know how far, how fast and how often I can get him going.

He also works the spring and flirt, plus gets lots of walks so he is in pretty good shape to start a running regimen.

Thanks,

Genevieve

 

When I bike my dog, I usually let her set the pace. She starts out HARD because she is excited to get going. I let her sprint and get her first energy jitters out. After that, she'll jog at a reasonable pace. I have a speedometer on my bike so I know exactly how fast and how far she is going. Her relaxed pace is between 8 or 10 mph. Her sprinting has gotten as high as 18mph or faster. On an average day, she would bike for 2 miles solid. She can jog for a good distance, and if she starts lagging I know something is wrong, because the dog never lags! I normally have her quit before she gets to dragging herself, but I've run her 5 miles without stopping and she is still trying to push ahead. I make sure to always watch her carefully because she isn't a dog that lets you know she is tired while running. She may be a mutt, but the bitch was built for distance and wind.

When it was winter/spring I was running her almost every day on the bike, but also throwing in a few relax/easy walking days as well. After the bike, I'd give her a rub down so she wouldn't get stiff. It is summer now, so I can't bike her (she'd get over heated). This week is cool though so I might get her on the bike tomorrow.

The most she has ever run was 8 miles. It was very cool outside, and she showed no signs of exhaustion or lameness. She would have made it to 10 miles, but it was late so I had to go home lol

My advice for the paw damage:

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2754374

This stuff works miracles! I was able to run her 8 miles using this stuff, and she didn't have one nick on her paws. It really protects the pads, and I swear by it. Just rub it on the paws before you leave, and you are ready to go.

and this is my dog on the bike:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6AfDNGj1UE

 

There is no magic number! Best thing to do is start out with a time..say 20 minutes. Keep track of distance the dog runs it in. The next day, do the same. Is the dog tired, lagging or is the dog ready to go again? Check recovery times (heart rate, breathing) This should tell you if you can add more time (which would equal more distance) You should however take it easy first wekk or so, this will help toughen your dog's pads. Remember too that dogs who are running full speed right out of teh gate could be setting themselves up for injury. While again, all dogs are different, you can incorporate short sprints after your dog has warmed up (same as with human atheletes.)

Also remember that running on concrete is harder on the joints, something to take into consideration if you are ..

But 3 miles should not be a problem. You can always go the 3 miles and see the time it takes (at a good pace) and go from there.

Just because a dog CAN go more though doesn;t mean it should! Remember, these dogs do not show pain /injury (heart beat and pupil dialation can show this) so just because a dog is fine the first day doesnt mean they will the second or third days!

how many days? well, again, that depends on the dog, the run, etc. If its a hard run, the dog is tired, etc it might need a few days of rest. If it is a easy run, the dog could probably do it each day! It just depends on the dog. Nothing is set in stone

 

Running a dog while still on a choke collar is extremely dangerous, I would consider using a harness or that other thingie on the dogs neck.

 

GENEVIVE:

I like this topic. I am a big advocate of biking my dogs. I only do 2 of my dogs on a bike now. My 6 year old, I think, has some sore joints so he only does handwalking and weightpulling on the cart. (occasional flirt pole)


I bike my black girl about 5-6 times a week. She FREAKING LOVES IT!!!! She starts off pulling like a son of a bitch. She'll top out at about 22mph. She will do this for a bout .5 miles. The rest of our bike ride, she'll stay at about 8-10 mph. I only take her for about 2-2.5 miles at a time. I will let her pee, when we turn around at the 1.25 mile mark or so.

good luck and be safe!

Andrew

 

Thanks for the replies, everyone!

I have to admit, I run my boy on a prong too- he wants to eat the bike tires (he has a rubber obsession) and every once in a while he needs a reminder that that isn't cool.

Next questions are safety questions:

Do you hold the leash or tie the leash to the bike? I have been holding it so I can drop it in an emergency (gets tangled, quick stop, etc).

Anyone try those quick break dog joggers? http://www.springerusa.com/pics.html If so, like it better than the leash or think it's more dangerous?

If you aren't running them on a correction collar (which I realize has inherent risks) how do you prevent your intact males from deciding to slow down to pee every 2 minutes/ discourage tire biting/ bunny chasing/ etc)?

Anyone been pulled off their bike by their dog? I guess I am weighing the risks of the correction collar against me being flat on the pavement from a good clip.

Thanks!

Genevieve

 

That is the "other thingie" on her neck. She runs wearing a prong collar, not a choke, to remind her not to pull ahead of my tire. Normally she is heeling perfectly, but every once in awhile she tries to get ballsy. I keep the leash loose while biking her, so half the time she probably doesn't even realize she is wearing the prong collar.

To the OP, I hold onto the leash. I personally feel it allows me more control to reel her in or let her looser. I have unfortunately been pulled off my bike before, and if you are very quick you can manage to land it safer lol. Once my dog saw a cat; she darted ahead of bike tire, crossed in front of it, and took me and the bike in a tangled mess with her. Thankfully when she realized the damage she had done, she no longer attempted chasing the cat!

 

First walk my dog good so he or she is empty. I start with 20-30 min session and build it up to 1 hour. I do this always at night. I use a wide collar and a leash that easy fits my hand. I feel it's safer to have leash in my hand so i can control the dog a bit. The speed is about 6/7 mph but the dog make the pace. I give them rest when they need to. After the session i hand rub for about 10 min.
When i get a puppy i start with walking him arround the house beside my bike 1x a week (with bike in my hand ofcourse). So when older he's used to the bike.

 

You need to start training the dog first off to accept the bike. While I personally use prong collars for training, they are not ment to be used for the biking situation.

IF your dog cannot be controled with a normal collar or better yet harness, then you have no business running the dog on a bike until he can be controled. You are simply asking for trouble, not only for your dogs safety but for your own and others.

Even female dogs will chase after bunnies, even neutered males will chase after them. Prey drive is not dictated by whether a dog is fixed or not. Some of the best hunting dogs are fixed.. As for the marking issue, stop letting the dog do what it wants!! I'm not trying to be mean here but it sounds like your dog has control of YOU, not the other way around.

Letting the leash go? That means you do not have control of your dog and lets not forget the legal aspects of what that will imply. Your dog will be at fault for anything if you let go of the leash. Again, remember the breed you are dealing with.

Personally I think you need to start out with some basic obedience on the bike with the dog. TEaching him what he can and cannot do. Your first priority should be the safety and well being of you, the dog and the public. As horrible as it is, we need to be the "more" responsible party

As for those break away bike things.. not with a bulldog. A better option is a Horse lead. You can tie it to the bike and still hold on to it with your hand for just in case situations.

 

1. I hold onto the leash with my hand.
2. 2 of my dogs have on a harness while biking. 1, I use the 2" stillwater collar.
3. I would not bike my dog if all of the stuff (tire biting, pissing, bunny chasing) was not under control. Don't get me wrong, they like their small animals and may look at them, but they've been 'told' not to go after it while biking/walking/etc.
4. While biking, we piss before we go and then at the 1/2 way mark. I'll get off the bike, check pads, maybe play a little fetch (in a contained area at the fair ground, w/ NO other dogs

 

I have one question about biking. In our country pit bulls are banned, and they who have them must walking them on leash and with muzzle. So what would be the safe muzzle for biking. We would like to start runing but without muzzle is not safe. Now i have this muzzle but i think that this muzzle isnt right for biking, it's for short walks in the park and similar
What do you suggest?

 

Nick, read this site.


http://leerburg.com/muzzleselection.htm

It sounds like your best bet will be a wire basket muzzle. Those nylon muzzles are definitely no good for heavy panting.

 

When my bitch was in her best shape i was biking about 15 miles a day with her 4 times a week at a nice brisk pace and would throw in a few sprint sessions also, never had problems with her feet, i think biking and just chasing the ball are 2 of the best exercises for the dogs.

 

I love biking with Helena. I let her set her own pace too. And when I think she's ready to go I encourage her and start peddling faster. She was pulling me a little today. I think shes getting the idea.

 

For me, the only safe and good muzzle is the one below. You can buy it in Europ (that is made in Czech Republic, but you can buy it also in Poland).
It is called physiological muzzle. It is very light, it is from some kind of metal so it is very resistant, but covered with some "rubber" (when the dog hit you with it, it doesnt hurt so much, and in winter it doesnt get cold). The dog can open it mouth in it, it can loll (the only way to cool itself when it is hot), bark, drink water, eat...
The one on photos is used by my dog for about 3 years (few times every day, he wears it on every walk).

 

Yeah that muzzle is great, i have the same one for Brina.



Nick the muzzle on your pic is very bad for the dog. He will overheat if he'll wear it on bike rides. He can overheat in it even on short walks when it's hot outside. Throw that one away and buy a new one

 

This muzzle that i have is only for short winter walks, not for biking

 

This is kinda disturbing.

 

Ok Hey you're from Croatia! My neighbour! I didn't know pitbulls were banned over there. :confused: Can you please tell me a bit more about your law? You can send me a PM. Thanks.

40lbRed what's disturbing?

 

Sorry, Nick's muzzle would only be good for a vet visit, hardly exercise.